Pinot grigio is one of the most divisive grapes in the world of wine. Its devotees are die-hard enthusiasts, many of whom eschew other varieties altogether, but its detractors are vocal. How can a popular opinion be so split on one of the best-selling wines on the planet? Well, think about vanilla ice cream. If you pick up a pint from a large national brand at your local convenience store, it’s likely to be pretty bland and uninteresting—not actively bad, but merely fine. But a scoop of fresh homemade vanilla bean from your favorite local creamery can be complex, delightful, and perhaps even revelatory.
The wine follows a similar principle: If you go with the mass-produced option, you’ll likely be underwhelmed. But if you choose the right regions and producers, you’ll be on your way to an outstanding pinot grigio experience.
Pinot grigio, commonly known as pinot gris in Francophone countries, is Italian for gray pinot. This name comes from the color of the grape skins, which are actually pink rather than gray, but it makes sense when you think of it as being in between pinot Bianco/Blanco (white pinot) and Pinot Nero/noir (black pinot). In fact, all of these varieties are naturally occurring color mutations of the same grape.
Thoughtful vineyard management is a necessary component of producing great pinot grigio. When yields are kept low and grapes are allowed to ripen fully, the wines are bright, crisp, and refreshing, with vibrant lemon-lime citrus notes alongside other fruits like peach, apricot, green apple, and melon. These flavors and aromas are often accompanied by a floral perfume of jasmine and honeysuckle. Italian versions of pinot grigio often have a hint of almond skin in their profiles. In some regions, like Alsace, the finest wines can even develop some elegant toasty, smoky, and biscuity notes with a bit of bottle age.
Pinot grigio’s bad rap comes from the inexpensive bulk wines that dominate the market. High-yielding vines save growers money by producing the largest possible crop, but they also lead to diluted flavors. These wines can be rather neutral and simple, but they’re typically very palatable to inexperienced drinkers and also quite affordable, rendering them perfect for parties.
But those looking for a more meditative drinking experience should not overlook pinot grigio, which is perfectly capable of producing some outstanding and memorable wines—if you know where to look. Much of Italy’s pinot grigio production comes from the Veneto region of Italy, but the best examples frequently come from other parts of Italy and beyond.
These are a few of the most surprising pinot grigio wines that may change your mind about the grape.
Kabaj 2015 Sivi (Goriška Brda, Slovenia)
Sivi pinot is the Slovenian word for pinot grigio and is also used by some nearby Friulian producers such as Radikon. The style of wine is similar on both sides of the border, and it’s common for this variety to be produced as an orange (or skin-contact) wine here too. Kabaj, a natural producer located in Goriška Brda, likes to hold back its wines for several years before release, so this isn’t your usual young pinot grigio. Parisian-born proprietor Jean-Michel Morel puts “pinot gris” on its label, a nod to both his French heritage and the richer style of this wine as compared with examples from Veneto. This pink-tinted beauty, with its notes of dried stone fruit, custard, and brioche, is a beautiful example of how well pinot grigio can do with age.Losonci 2018 (Mátra, Hungary)
Radikon 2018 Sivi (Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy)
Zind-Humbrecht 2018 (Alsace, France)
The Alsace region of France is where pinot gris achieves its most elegant iterations, and Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is one of the region’s most iconic producers. If you’ve tried only Italian pinot grigio, you’re in for a surprise when you taste this wine and realize just how dissimilar two wines made from the same grape can be. Alsatian pinot gris is anything but neutral: It’s rich, round, and deeply perfumed, with powerful smoky, spicy and nutty notes to complement the ripe peach and pear fruit aromas. As is common with pinot gris from this region, the nose may lead you to think that this wine will be on the sweet side, but in fact it’s quite dry on the palate. (There are, however, also some excellent sweet Pinot Gris wines from Alsace, made in a style inspired by Bordeaux’s Sauternes.)342 total views, 3 views today
